by anderschristianmadsen


By Anders Christian Madsen

Milan, 22/06/13. After the sea of tailoring that is the London collections and the sartorial peacocking of Pitti, suits and loafers tend to cloud into something of a haze come the shows in Milan. So it says a lot about what Stefano Pilato can do with the classic men’s uniform that his debut at Ermenegildo Zegna seemed so different from all the rest of it.

Where the Savile Row tailors of the London shows could be epitomised either by their sharp ultra formal cutting or their sporty casual tailoring, Pilati approached his formal suiting with a certain softness that changed the entire tailoring landscape. Sure you could say the ‘hip’ styling accounted for a lot the show’s anti-stuffy vibes – take for instance the mix ‘n’ match pairing of different jackets and trousers, or the clever layering going on around the wrist where long t-shirt sleeves had been rolled up over the cuffs of jackets – but it only took a closer look to see the intricate detailing in the fabric of trousers or the silk of two pretty fly white looks, both of which made for a fresher kind of tailoring.

Of course, it didn’t hurt that the house had avoided the kind of Italian macho man models you get by the dozen in Milan and gone for a somewhat younger and chicer drove. As they came marching around the oval catwalk for the finale, it felt like Zegna and Pilati had come full circle.